Monday, 16 June 2008

*PICS ADDED* We´re going Iguazu-zu-zu...

(To the tune of We`re going to the Zoo)

We´re going down Iguazuuuuu tomorrow, zu tomorrow, zu tomorrow
We´re going down Iguazuuuuu tomorrow, zu tomorrow, zu tomorrow
We can stay all day
We´re goin Iguazu-zu-zu
How about you-you-you
You can come too-too-too
We´re goin Iguazu-zu-zu...


C laughed as I sang my silly little song on the bus, and asked what other 37 year old woman would have come up with that song. (Answer: None, I´m unique).

Iguazu Falls are the local must-see in Northern Argentina, with the highest concentration of waterfalls in one area on the planet. They are, at 71 metres, 50% higher than Niagara falls, fact fans.

We checked into the Hostel Inn, late Friday evening after a 7 hour journey. I had been seriously considering the Sheraton Hotel, which apparently looks out onto the falls from every room, then I remembered that C and I don`t have jobs any more...
Hostel Inns are surprisingly good. Basic, clean, with a TV and air con, I likened it (with the orange bedspread) to what I imagined and EasyHotel might be like. I didn`t think I`d like it, but honestly, I would recommend them.

I was a bit tired and grumpy as I´d not eaten for 7 hours (C had chucked our provisions in the hold on the coach...doh!) and could not contemplate the all-you-can-eat buffet at 9.30 at night, plus I was sulking by now, so we tore open the food I`d bought and had an impromptu picnic in our room.

I`m like a Gremlin, feed me regularly and I`m a happy bunny. Without food, I turn into a whiney little girl, and then a stroppy one. Feed me and instantly I´m right as rain again.

We also opened a mini bottle of Moet we`d brought with us, a tiny taste of luxury our good friend (and regular reader - hi!) PK bought us before we left, as it was the only night we´ve had to ourselves since we got here.

She´d given us two bottles to take with us and perk us up when we had a low spot, but I said to C, I´d prefer to drink it with fonder memories. Besides, we`d have drunk them both in the first week if we`d stuck to the original plan.

5 weeks is definitely the longest I´ve gone without drinking champagne I already possess though!

Exhausted after the long journey, after we´d booked our day trip to the Falls and C had a beer, we stayed in and watched ´8 Mile` on the telly and fell asleep, preferring to conserve our energies for the long day ahead and K&A´s arrival.

Rock and roll.
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Saturday: next day, up early, a basic breakfast of hot chocolate and "dulce de leche" on bread, and onto our minibus to Iguazu.

The weather forecast had been for 25º and sunny...but it appears their forecasters are every bit as shite as the British ones. It was a dull, muggy day, which later turned torrential.

And after our boat ride (which did 4 doughnuts underneath the splash of two waterfalls - pretty cool, actually, and quite an experience getting that close to the force of it), I was absolutely drenched. We´d brought dry clothes to change into, but it was a bit public, so I kept my bikini bottoms on. This then meant I was wandering round for ages looking like I´d peed myself, so I had to find a loo and dry off properly under the handdryer.

There are cheaper ways to do the Falls. Don´t do the 120 peso trip. Ali & Oz Kirsten had pretty much the same day (less the boat trip) and paid about 100 pesos less than we did. And you still need to pay 40 pesos in! We were ripped off, but we consoled ourselves that it was only about 20 quid, less than a round of drinks in London, and we´d had a great day.

No point me describing the falls to you - it`s just a lot of water falling off some big rocks, so here are some pics:

Can you see the rainbow?

Big water

More big water

Oh yeah, forgot to mention we saw a TARANTULA when we were in a shop...it fell off the doorframe and a girl screamed as it nearly landed on her. It was about 4 inches across. You can click on any of the pics in this blog and they go big.

That evening, we had a few drinks with Kirsten, Ali and Roshan - a guy we´d met on the boat trip who lives in Acton...(two tube stops from me back home!) and Sam, a lovely guy from North Carolina who was travelling on his own too. Roshan had asked us if we´d seen his mates Andy and Chris from Preston (we`d all shared banter on our boat trip earlier) but they were nowhere to be seen.

Andy & Chris were funny - they told us they were 3 weeks into a year-long trip and had already spent a quarter of the money. Ha!

Anyhoo, we spent a good night chilling, drinking, chatting to random other people and swapping stories, and C & the girls had a bit of a go on the pool and table tennis tables. (I was still smarting from bowling t´other night, so gave it a miss)

Fab table in the hostel where we had dinner

Next day, a little hungover, we four said goodbye to our new buddies, swapped facebook and email contacts and set off home. I`d been hoping to go to the Brazilian side of the falls this morning if the weather turned good (just our luck, it was glorious today...aaaagh!), but we´d heard there was a bus strike on so decided to head back asap, as we had to be back for Marcello´s birthday party that night in Posadas (Bank Holiday Monday...no school again!) and we´d no idea how long it might take.
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C`s just come back from watching the footy, it´s cold and we`re going home, so I`ll post again soon about Sunday´s shenanigans.
____

Sunday, 15 June 2008

Catch up...week 5...

It´s been ages since I blogged. Sorry about that. We´re supposed to have broadband at our homestay...well, we *do* except Flor is on it all the time, 40% for college work, 60% it seems, for MSNing her mates. She then hovers over you, pointedly, if you manage to jump on briefly to check your emails.

Don´t young people go out and drink in parks any more?!

In frustration, C has virtually given up his blog (don´t worry, mine´s funnier), but in my determination here I am in a crappy internet café (like a common student), on a keyboard with some of the keys faded completely and others with the letters rewritten on bits of paper and stuck on with sellotape.

The place is called ´Cyberrott´, which sounds like a fungal infection to me. C said it sounds like a computer virus...geddit?!).

You have got to admire my dedication to the cause...i.e keeping you amused dear readers - so keep those little messages coming!
______

Monday: it chucked it down ALL day, I seriously didn´t know there was that much rain in the sky. Today was meant to be my school´s 75th birthday party. I texted V to check if it was on. She phoned the school and they said they would ´probably´ cancel, in which case I texted V t say I would ´probably´ stay in bed! I texted John & Ali to let them know and had a BIG SLEEP. Couldn´t venture out all day; the rugby we were invited to wouldn´t have been on, but I felt bad we didn´t go to the refugio as C & I had promised the kids we´d be back today. C was meant to start his footy project today, but rain stopped play, again.

Tuesday: back to school. John had slept in (he said his alarm didn´t go off, I reckoned it was a chica...) so Ali & I took 5a alone.

They were really really naughty today. Acting up, running around like proper LOONS.

I put it down to the fact they´d not been in school for 4 days, and probably not even been able to play outside due to the weather (these kids won´t have the luxury of Wiis or X-Boxes) and were a little stir-crazy.

Or it could have been the E-numbers and sugar in the sweets and luminous fizzy pop the kids consume throughout their lessons. I´m not sure the teachers have made a connection between this diet and that nut-nut behaviour, but it´s a bit difficult to enforce a no eating/drinking rule as a voluntary teacher, when the permanent staff don´t seem to give a toss.

Anyway, we started ´Partes del Cuerpo´. Oh how the kids laughed when we got to "bottom" and I had to point at my arse.

Damn John for not being there, I was going to use him for that one.

There was a bizarre break in proceedings when a scruffy random woman was let in (by their form teacher!!!) to start selling Boca souvenirs (presumably for Father´s Day, C said, but *still!* in my class?!?!?) and she hawked her wares, showing off various plaster plaques; horses, ties, horseshoes and football shirts, painted in Boca Juniors´ blue & yellow stripes. How very strange. The kids seemed as bemused as Ali & I were, and, not surprisingly, didn´t buy any of her tat.

BTW They *do* celebrate Father´s Day here (Dia del Papa), but I have searched up and down for a card for weeks. No cards! No card shops! Not even any postcards! Bizarre. I found some truly crappy birthday cards, but they didn´t seem appropriate, so sorry, Dad. Happy Father´s Day!

Back to the lesson. On the plus side, at the end of a difficult class, one of the fat kids who´d given me a hard time in the first week, Geronimo (really bright kid), made me an origami frog that actually hops! And Ali got a homemade bracelet from one of the girls. Cute. I do like 5a, they´re a rewarding class to teach.

6a were much harder work (I don´t like this class so much, there´s a few too many that think they´re too cool, and therefore it´s really hard to reel them all in), but we managed between the 3 of us to get through it.

And we used John´s bum this time.
___

Tuesday evening: TANGO - yay! I like that it´s on Tuesday at it makes me feel closer to my girl-friends back home, who I usually do my regular dance class with. Different dance though!

We´re doing OK, C & I. John & Ali joined us again tonight and new girl Kristen came along. (NB: not KIRsten, who´s the Aussie, KRIsten who´s new and from Florida, Claro?! Bueno. I´ll use their countries of origin in future so you know I´m not misstyping)

As we were 3 girls and 2 boys, we mixed it up a bit and shared the John & C man-love. This did mean that at any one time, one of us chicas was left hovering like a wallflower at a 50´s school prom.

However, that didn´t last long, some of the local men, probably glad of some younger laydees in the room, came over and asked us to dance.

NOT the dashing one with the chiseled cheekbones and fancy footwork, before you get all excited. *He* stuck to a *tiny*, cute, lithe and petite girl of about 19 with the pertest arse ever, wearing a figure-hugging grey towelling tracksuit (John was agog, but C had the grace to pretend not to notice!) who was equally slinky-of hip and fleet of foot.

No, I got an old feller in his 70s, about my height (or shorter) and rotund of frame, who gallantly took me by the hand and asked me to dance.

I thought "Sweet! I might learn a thing or two from this old-timer", and started the ´one, two, three...´ I´d been taught. I didn´t get past the first step.

He appeared to be doing a jig, hopping from one foot to the other very fast whilst wiggling his hips and turning me round and round the floor, motioning that I follow. I had to anyway, to prevent my feet getting trodden on. It was quiet the weirdest dance ever, and I´m convinced it wasn´t Tango!

My next new partner was a man in his late 30s, Martin, who spoke very good English and actually taught us a few new moves. Softly-spoken and studious-looking, he told me he was an actor (I thought), but then Ali said he´d said "architect" to her, which seems more like it.

So we´re making local friends now...I´m really enjoying living here and really not missing the turmoils of London life at all, which is the biggest surprise ever. I always thought I was a London girl through and through.

We went for a drink after (Ali headed home early, but Tom came out to join us). I wasn´t feeling great so had water and a smidge of beer (couldn´t bear the thought of wine!), but we had a good evening chatting about all John´s conquests.

He´s met a local girl called Susannah who even cooked him lunch today, although Tom said he reckoned she was going to be hard work as she only allowed John a kiss on the cheek so far after two ´dates´.

Anyway C told me later he reckons John´s now got the hots for US Kristen.

Honestly, the boy is one big walking hormone! Oh to be 19 again, eh?!

Kristen *is* very pretty in a clean-cut, high-school cheerleader, All-American girl-next-door kinda way. Straight long light brown hair, clear skin, cute little button nose, perfect white teeth.

That´s where the cliché ends though; she´s also funny, self-deprecating, thoughtful and intelligent (Lisa, hon, I´ve found another one!).

She has just completed a degree in Speech Therapy and I was quietly impressed when C told me that she wishes to transfer to his old refuge project as the one she is at is relatively clean and happy (12 kids as opposed to C´s 30 or 40), already has Leanne (the other new voluntaria whose name I´d forgotten when I introduced them a few days ago) and Finula working there, and K felt she could better use her therapy skills with Danny & Walter, the two special needs boys, as well as make more of a difference with the other kids.

C too, is reconsidering going back to the refuge. His time is split between two football projects now, but one, it appears, already has a local coach who has it under control, and C´s role is reduced to that of gopher (fetch balls, stand there as a marker - a job, he pointed out, a plastic cone could do). Not really helping anyone, is it?!

It´s an amazing turnaround (remember how he moaned in the first week?!) and I´m really proud of him, and K, for not taking the easier option.

I think he´s really bonded with, and is missing those kids too.

I suggested he do the one footy project where he *is* of use, and then spend the other 3 days in the refugio. V is cool with that, too.

Wednesday: Really bad tummy ache and didn´t sleep all night, dunno if something I ate, so took the day off. Ali & John took 5b & 6b for ´Partes del cuerpo´ today. Ali came over to get the notes and I went back to bed, slept all day.

Later (10 ish), I was persuaded to go out as it was Tom´s last big night out before we go to Iguazu Falls (C & I & Oz Kirsten & Ali) and Tom finishes this Friday. He´d arranged for bowling. Now I´ve told you before I get all competitive, but I kept a low profile about it.

Just as well. I bowled probably the worst game of my life, finishing 2nd from bottom. C came top. I was SO angry with myself; the last time I bowled (at my emap leaving do) I was the highest scoring girl, with 120-something, so this was *appalling*.

I put it down to not being used to bowling Southern Hemisphere (well, gravity´s upside-down here, innit?). Yeah.

Or more likely, because I wasn´t feeling well, and therefore not drinking.

We went off for an earlyish night whilst Tom, John, US Kristen and Leanne went off to the (in)famous Cristobal.

C told me John had been taking photos of US Kristen´s behind as she was bowling. His courtship rituals are nothing if not subtle. Oz Kristen, Ali and I have started using the word "SUB-TUL!" (pronouncing the ´B´) to when he does stuff like that. Like "Oh! John´s being SUB-TUL again!"

(Should US Kristen read this, John´s cover´s blown. I know Tom´s reading this (Hi!) and finding it funny). Think he´ll not be successful though, she´s 26 and I´m not sure it´s reciprocal. She apparently went home from Cristobal early, so John sloped off and left Tom and Leanne alone together...(woooh! A budding blarney romance! Shame it´s Tom´s last week...and as he pointed out, he came all this way, only to meet an Irish girl...)

Thursday - more torrential rain. No school (again) as they had shut for cleaning; their birthday party had been postponed till tomorrow. John had arranged to come round so he could get some of my pics and I could transfer all his stuff onto a USB stick - Flor hovered over the computer *again* when she came in for our last 15 mins. (Jeez! This is really winding me up! It makes us feel really uncomfortable)

We headed into town for 1pm lunch (in the only place that´s not closed for siesta, the shopping mall) with Ali, Tom and Finula (the other newbie) who´d been in bed with flu all week. John had cancelled his date with Susannah by *text* to join us (I did tell him he should call her, like a man). He said she´s getting "a bit clingy" (after 2 dates!) and she´s "not that pretty" (like US Kristen?!). Ah the fickleness of youth (or is that just men?)

Everyone was knackered Thursday, so we didn´t do anything in the evening. Good to give the old liver a break and I´m still not feeling right or sleeping well.

Friday am: school birthday party. A balloon arc and big banners on approach, it looked so promising, but turned out to be a *lot* of speeches, a police band, a few flag-bearers, a few class songs, it was over in 1.5 hours, and wasn´t really very party-like, but there you go.

A lovely day, really hot, so I think the school missed a trick in not making some money selling fizzy pop, sweets and souvenirs for profit (they do it in the lessons, after all).

And a bouncy castle and coconut shy would have gone down fantastico!

That same morning, C went down to the refugio, and it fair warmed the cockles of my heart to hear later, that he was virtually mobbed by every single kid in there. It took him 5 minutes to get through the door as they shouted his name and reached to grab and touch him. He said he felt like a star. They obviously really missed him, as he did them.

It´s already really upsetting me, the thought of going home and never seeing these kids again, never knowing how their lives turned out. We can´t keep in touch with them; they are largely illiterate and of course will not have access to computers/email, and the staff (when in evidence) are the same in those respects.

I kinda wished I was doing the refugio project now, these kids so need attention and love, but I made my decision to stay at the school for valid reasons, and I can´t chop & change. I can´t wait to go there again though, I´ll work some afternoons in with C if possible whilst we´re here.

That afternoon, C&I packed for our weekend trip to Iguazu Falls (6 hours North, and predicted 25 degrees and sunny, YAY!) this weekend. We´ve taken 2 nights at the Hostel Inn (the idea of a hostel sounded horrid - we´re a bit over dorms! - but I checked the website, it was recommended and I could book us a private room with its own bathroom, so phew!).

Oz Kirsten & Ali are following on the night bus to save a night´s stay (and money), but we quite liked the idea of an evening to ourselves, the first we´ve had since we got here.

I have to head back ´home´ for dinner soon, and I´m nearing 2 hours logged up here, so I´ll do a separate post about our trip, hopefully tomorrow - it´s a Bank Holiday, so no work (again!), although I´m not sure if the cafés will be open.

This may have to keep you going for a bit. Ciao!

Wednesday, 11 June 2008

*PICS ADDED* Polo on a glorious day...MORE rain, and a house party

I´m getting thoroughly bored of this crappy - torrential! - and FREEZING weather. I don´t mean to go on, but abroad´s meant to be HOT! On the plus side, I´ve been told Posadas is usually only this grim for two months of the year.

It appears we hit Posadas for those exact 2 months.

To make matters worse, my ex-colleagues at the Telegraph (or what´s left of them, a raft of redundancies today...8000 miles across the pond and I´ve still got my ear to the ground, eh!?) are sweltering in London town with FANTASTIC weather, although I am consoling myself that they are mainly observing this from a freezing air-con´d office. I heard my own boss got the heave-ho...chances of me getting my May bonus are nearing zero I fear then - no wonder she and her deputy had not replied over the last couple of weeks...
___________

Sunday in Posadas, however was a gorgeous sunny and hot day, perfect, in fact for a spot of Polo.

So Ali & Kirsten, C & I headed off with a simple picnic for 4 packed in my big gold holdall (glam even when backpacking, you´ll be glad to know) for the day. Yum!

This wasn´t just any old Polo, either. The Posadas Polo Tournament Finals no less. With the local army teams playing. Military polo players. Double Yum, eh, girls?!

So for the occasion, I decided to premier my cute black bubble-skirt knee-length dress on (way more stylish than the Primarni label suggests), pulled in with a bright fuschia pink sarong, tied kimono-style, my little black patent pumps (they´ve stopped rubbing - hoorah!) and my CK mahoosive sunnies for a bit of Polo WAG chic. Bare legs for the first time in weeks - yay!

V texted us to tell us it started at 1, so thought we´d have missed a game by rocking up at 2.

They were still prepping the joint. Raking out the wood chip, setting up refreshments, etc.

1pm Argentinian time, obviously!

Looking round, I noticed that these were the monied Argies of Posadas...they looked pretty much like Sloanes at our Polo matches, but more tanned and somehow more glamorous-looking; chinos, shirts and loafers for the men, shirts, jeans, boots, designer shades and expensive highlights for the women.

Their kids, swanning round in their jodphurs and riding boots, had a life so far removed to the refugio kids, I found myself thinking.

We settled in and ravenous, tore into our fresh bread, cheeses, grapes, soft drinks, water, crisps & biscuits, and these weird slightly-stale-tasting sweet snacks with the texture of Wotsits, but in different colours and tasting faintly of bubblegum. K & I found them strangley addictive though.

We actually gave the wine a miss what with being hideously hung over from the night before, when we´d met K&A for a few drinks at midnight (having watched Saw 3 and a teen slasher flick called Jekyll & Hyde on DVD with Flor & Silvina - just what you need before heading out at midnight!), and then ended up invited to a house party (of a guy K works with at El Puma, the conservation project). A house party in Argentina! We really are locals! Ali says it feels like we all live here, and she doesn´t really want to go home. I know what she means, life is certainly simpler out here. No high-pressure targets, laid-back any-time-will-do lifestyle, siestas...

It was the most random, wild party, about 100 people in a packed tiny flat, *very* dark (I don´t mean it was sinister, I mean the only light came from the computer´s playlist) and it reminded me of frat parties I´ve seen in crappy American teen movies.

Frat-style houseparty. We passed on the offer of this particular beverage

Can´t remember his name, so we´ve nicknamed him F.J. (Fat Jesus), really nice guy who invited us to the rugby. What do you mean, which one?!

Our gracious hosts, and K

We had fun whilst we recognised the music (I think they decided to play their few British tracks - mainly Fatboy Slim, and randomly, Erasure remixes - in our honour when we arrived - but then it quickly deteriorated into the music of local choice (and the dreaded Power nightclub), "Coombia". Probably spelt differently, but that is how it´s pronounced.

We also got invited to watch some of the boys play rugby on Monday and as we have the day off again (school birthday) we agreed.

Polo and rugby in one weekend! Tally ho! Let it be said, I have never attended a match of either in the UK, ever.
____

I digressed wildly.

Where was I?! Oh, yes, like you, still waiting for the Polo to start. Finally, 2 hours after we arrived (at 4pm, 3 hours later than scheduled...those KERRAZY Argies!), the tannoy came on for more than the several soundchecks we´d heard until now.

It was meant to be for the kids, but Ali & I were in fits getting pics of each other as ´pilots´ whilst waiting for the polo to start.

We managed to piece together the information, that as the rain had been so heavy of late, the fields were dangerous for a full blown tournament, and so as to not disappoint, the army would do a ´Polo demonstration´ for us. After all that!

We were also promised an army band. In the end, a few of them walked out to our over-excitement (remember, we´d waited 2 hours for this!), and then randomly, everyone turned back and walked back to their bus, bar one solitary trumpeter to herald the start of the demo. Maybe it was too dangerous for them to play due to rain yesterday too?!

Fit military polo player, no 4 shirt (click for close-up)

We were promised a band. This is what we got.

The Polo: they played 6 chukkas, all of which didn´t last very long, we weren´t quite sure when they scored and it was over very quickly.

Action shot

I likened it to the worse types of romantic encounters...was that IT?!

Still we had a grand day out, a laugh, it was free, and it´s another experience.

Better go, Flor want to use the computer again...

Saturday, 7 June 2008

*PICS ADDED* Rain stopped play...and some sad news.

We didn´t go to Polo. Rain stopped play. Maybe tomorrow.

Ended up going down to the coast and having a massive feed in a restaurant looking out over the river, having met with the new voluntarias (3 girls, Kristen from Florida, and two Irish girls, Finula and...ummm, I forgot). 35 Pesos each, under 6 quid each for yummy meal, wine, dessert.

Strolling it off, we stopped to gaze at Paraguay on the other side. We´ve been told by pretty much everyone who lives here that Paraguay is dull dull dull, but we fancy going over just to get the stamp in my passport. It´s just over a bridge, a day trip.

I took a pic on x12 zoom, and when I zoomed in again I could virtually look into someone´s house! That´s one *fine* camera, the Canon Ixus.


This is Paraguay from the Argentinian coast. Looks appealing, no?

Everyone says just go to this market on the Posadas coast, derogatorily called ´Paraguay in a Box´, where apparently you can find anything worth seeing without crossing the border. We went: a load of maté cups, bad underwear, worse shoes and all sorts of tat you would never want. Might give Paraguay a miss after all.
_________

Oh. And I´m afraid to say, Winnie died in the night. Kirsten was upset, but relieved the little one wasn´t suffering any more. Apparently it´s really hard to rear them in captivity and this is the 4th one they´ve had die on them. RIP Pooh bear :(




R.I.P. Winnie the Bear. May-June 2008.

Friday, 6 June 2008

*PICS ADDED* The rain is back, and my visit to El Refugio...

Realised I´d said nothing about work this week...it´s not been all play play play (honest!), but we have settled into a nice little routine and school, as Irish Ali would say, is "grand".

Tuesday was torrential rain: I allowed myself the luxury of a cab into work, which cost me just over a quid. We were shocked to find out the rain meant that 5a had all of 4 students (out of 25!), 6b fairing only slightly better with 10/22 kids. There seemed little point starting the new subjects I´d prepared, so we 3 teachers revised all the vocab learnt with team games of hangman and my now-famous Rolf-Harris-style game. The teachers here were quite unphased, the kids don´t come to school if the weather is bad.

C said it´s a policy he´d love to introduce to the workplace in England, but I pointed out we´d never get into work.

On Wednesday, 5b wrote a HUGE sign on the board:



The incorrect spelling made it all the more adorable. It could´ve been for any of us, but as the chicas dragged *me* over to it and hadn´t put an "S" on the end, I think it was for *me*, and me alone, of course.

Thursday, the (grown up) boys were all broken, after our Wednesday night at Sampaka (a jovial evening, with me & C, Ali, John, Tom, V and Marcello), the guys headed out for more at 12.30 (The chicas opted to go to bed earlier, much to John´s undisguised delight at the chance of a boy´s evening out).

I laughed at C for thinking he could keep up with the young uns, as the alarm bleeped pain and regret into his head with every push of the ´snooze´ button.

Running late myself, I power-walked in to find (at 8.55) no Ali or John. Fabiana informed me "no classe hoy". Eh?! So Ali & John were having a big old lie in?!??! I sighed heavily, and grumbled/mumbled in English under my breath, although my body language told her, "Someone could have effin´ told me".

Just then, they arrived. Ah. No one had told them either.

A hungover John struggled to comprehend that we really did have no classes today (we´re still not sure why, quite often they´ll just chop and change our schedule for no reason), Fabiana laughed she could smell whiskey on his breath (he was mortified) and we all repeatedly told him that we were free to go (I was virtually pushing him out the door lest F change her mind).

Ali & I laughed as a group of about 20 pubescent schoolgirls had watched us say goodbye to John at the gates as then they proceeded to follow him and run back nervously giggling and daring their mates to get closer. John, heading off home to get some kip, was oblivious to his growing, hormonal, fanbase.

We girls headed into town, glad of the chance to hit the one coffee bar and shops before siesta (everything shuts as we finish work at 12...even, inexplicably, the cafés and sandwich shops...still not worked out what people do for lunch!).

And on the hottest day this week, I managed to get a coat, 23 quid, with a comedically big furry hood.
____________

Friday: Raining again. Another day off work as they were fumigating the place to get rid of the mice in preparation for Monday´s 75th birthday party celebrations at the school (weirdly from 8 - 10.30 am, and no lessons again!)

We (John, Ali, Tom & I) had agreed to all go to help C on his last day at the Refugio. I was feeling a bit nervous, after all I´d heard from C. And he was bringing cake and pop for a girl´s birthday and presents for them all.

Feral kids, sugar and E-numbers!??!?! Help.

In the end, I thought the Refugio was nowhere *near* as bad as he´d painted it, although it was nowhere any kid should have to live.

I´m wondering if C´s a bit of a drama queen, or as he said, the kids (and the acrid smell of urine) were a lot more subdued today because of the rain.

Anyway, they were incredibly excited that C had brought his "nobia" (me) to the refugio. I was greeted shyly by some of the girls, hugged by a few and asked questions. Touchingly, they called me "Tia" immediately (C is "Tio" - uncle) and kept coming up for hugs and kisses.

One of the special-needs kids, Danny ran towards me, eyes shut (C thinks he´s partially blind), mouth open and silent, and enveloped me in a huge hug. He can´t speak, he´s 9, still in nappies, and malnutritioned, is the height of a 6 year old. I hugged him back, warmly and said "Hola Danny!". I felt I knew them and their names better than my own school kids from C´s numerous photos.

Walter, his younger brother, (also special needs, C says they really shouldn´t be there) with a face full of red scabs and sores (he scratches himself in his sleep) then came to hug me and grabbed me by the hands, with wet slobbery fingers to excitedly show me round his 4 room home (for 30-40 kids, 2 bedrooms, some sleep in the area they also eat in).

He excitedly pointed at the telly in the main indoor room (he can´t speak. He´s 7, looks 4), pulled me to the kitchen, asked the older girls for water by pointing, sweetly offered me his cup (I pretended to take a sip and said a big "Mmmmm! Gracias, Walter!"), and then dragged me to show off their tiny shared bedroom quarters.

I did not take photos of their rooms, sorry. I somehow think that sort of thing is disrespectful and a bit touristy to be honest. The other day, I´d had a go at C, after he informed me of yet more pictures of Walter´s face, supposedly to ´prepare´ me for my visit. I said that I didn´t need to be made any more apprehensive about my visit, thank you, and that Walter was a child, not a freakshow.

But believe me that the place was just above squalid. Filthy bedding, graffitied walls, not enough chairs (some were forced to eat standing up), no toys to speak of. I didn´t spot any staff, nor any security: it appeared the older girls looked after the other kids, and the front door was open, so the kids appear to come and go as they please.


C´s favourite boy, Augustin, with C´s cap on. Looks like a tiny Tiger Woods. Smiles all the time although he has nothing and no-one. A humbling lesson for us all there.

My favourite girl, Chou Chou. Kept hugging me and calling me Tia. Said she loved me after a few mins. It´s all they want, to be loved back.

Shortly after they´ve had the presents, a bit of a group shot with C in the middle and Ali (at the back, peeking over the top of the kids!).

John watching the kids drawing with the paper and felt tips we brought that day. They have no toys at all unless volunteers bring them in and they never last long.

We managed to give them a lovely morning, anyway. C had brought cakes, muffins, fizzy pop and presents (friendship bracelets for the older kids, stickers for the younger ones whose wrists would have been too small) and we created something of an atmosphere, party-cum-riot with these small pleasures.

C had the great idea to get me drawing animals, so like a kid´s entertainer, I soon had a crowd of children from 3-15 queuing up to have their favourite animals drawn, to which I added "Para (and their name), Besos! Sapna x".

My heart broke a little bit as I said goodbye (but I promised to come back Monday). They are such lovely, sweet kids, and I left feeling a bit guilty that I´d changed my project, but there are two good reasons, I justified: 1) I´m making good progress at my school 2) I would end up falling in love with Augustin (Cs´ favourite, a gorgeous 3 year old Tiger Woods lookalike) or, my favourite cutie, nicknamed "Chou Chou", a little girl about 3, who kept wanting to be picked up and said "Te ama" more than once.

I knew I´d have ended up, after a month, wanting to adopt one of them.
_______

This evening we visited Ali in her new pad. She´s moved in with Kirsten cos her other flatshare wasn´t working out and is much happier already. There was a sadness though, as K was red-nosed from crying: we think Winnie the honey bear is dying.

She´d not been eating and in the space of 3 hours, whilst K had been out, lapsed into a deep, floppy sleep, from which she couldn´t be woken.

I turned up armed with wine, which we demolished whilst we tried to take K´s mind off it, between calls to and from the vet with updates.

The prognosis doesn´t look good, I´m afraid. :(

Everyone has gone out to meet the new voluntarios tonight (not Tom & John though, they´ve gone away to Iguazu Falls, it´s Tom´s last weekend, and Iguazu is the local "must see").

I´m staying in. I´m feeling strangely down, what with the bear news and the realisation this morning that my two workmates, now friends, are going to be gone in 2 weeks (work has whizzed with them to share it with) and I will be back at work struggling on my own again before I know it.

Anyway, Polo tomorrow. Laters amigos.

Wednesday, 4 June 2008

Rain, rain go away...and soapy suds a-plenty

I did *not* sign up for this horrid weather and *still* can´t find a coat I like. :(

On the plus side, C & I went to Tango again last night, and now know 5 different moves, which we can put together in a passable, if slow, routine. C´s even managing to steer me effortlessly round others, rather than crashing into them as we were last week. Sometimes.

There was a very suave young guy there last night, all chiselled cheekbones and dark curly hair, who checked me out when he walked in. Fancy footwork, I couldn´t help but stare a little bit. Exactly the sort of guy C was scared might sweep me away! I said, cheekily, that I reckoned he could teach me a thing or two (about Tango...natch) and C held me just that bit closer. Sweet.

C called him a ´Tango slut´ as he danced with about 5-6 different ladies that evening, but as I´ve said, there´s a shortage of males, so I reckoned he was just spreading the love. Most were old enough to be his mum!

A basic white room, with a mirror along one wall and an antiquated computer (Windows 95) playing the tunes, "Dancing with the Stars", it aint.

Not least the Argentinian TV version which we have watched slack-jawed on TV (me in incredulity, C with a little bit of drool) as the chicas are wearing virtually next to nothing, two tiny triangles over their enormous blow-up breasts and a postage-stamp for a thong, displaying their Argentinian Brazilians to all and sundry.

The host even lay on the floor looking "up" as one did some high kicks and he later actually cut her ´knickers´ off with a pair of scissors (there was a tinier pair beneath...). With the cameras spanning tight mid-riffs and lingering over boobs and butts, they manage to make old Benny Hill shows from the 70s look P.C. My dad (and most blokes, I reckon) would love it.

Argentinian women on the telly seem to have a lot of plastic surgery...a couple of the celebrity dancers with better figures than most 20 year olds, I was told, were 55 and 47...it was seriously only when the camera came closer that you could see the slightly crepey neck and hands...If you ever want a slight nip-tuck, this is the place...
____

I went to buy some shower gel after Tango (the shops stay open till 10) and, as in the UK, I refused a plastic bag for one item.

A 10 minute walk home and I found the lid had come off and my i-pod, digital camera, pens, make-up bag, mobile, Spanish phrase book, notebook and gloves were literally *swimming* in the slimey, sticky goo.

C & I spent an hour cleaning up. Miraculously, with my ipod/camera being in cases and my USB stick with all my pics on and Tom´s ipod (which Kirsten had charged up and given me to return via John not 3 hours earlier...) in side pockets, everything was unharmed.

However, I´ve learnt my lesson; no more saving air miles or money by buying local (crappy packaging) - I´m back to buying imported brands again (Dove, Pantene, Johnson´s) and I´m DOUBLE-BAGGING.

On the plus side, all my stuff smells lovely.
_________

We needed a drink after that, so C suggested a local haunt I´d been wanting to go to since we got here, Cafe Sampaka (I pass it daily, on my walk to work).

We went out at 11.30 (I´m getting into Argie timing with my siestas), but the only people in there were a good-looking man and an older feller playing cards. The younger leapt up to serve us. We were actually the only clientele in there!

Normally, this would put me off, but turns out it´s the coolest bar ever, run by this guy, Mario and his brother in law, Carlos (who was behind the bar, sorting the tunes).

The music was great; a remix CD of a world-famous Argentinian DJ called Herman Castaña (?) - C has some of his CDs on Global Underground - and they got chatting. They burned C a CD, which he was v chuffed about.

A lot of bars in Argentina don´t sell wine by the glass so you *have* to get a bottle (nightmare, eh?!), but seeing as C was on beer, I was left with a dilemma. In the end I ordered the bottle (um, what did you *think* I was going to do?!) and managed to get them to agree to keep it behind the bar for me for next time.

Mario even rang his wife, Laura who teaches English to come down with their baby (at about 12.30!) and she brought down a tired but incredibly cute and smiley little girl, 8 months, who her uncle Carlos (Laura´s bro) held on a bar stool, her dummy in his mouth, so she could ´dance´ with her hands in the air. (Aren´t ravers getting younger these days?!)

I didn´t have my camera (it was drying out) so I´ll get pics another time.

We left at 2am - so much for one drink.

Sampaka´s only been open a month (same time we´ve been here) which is why they don´t have much custom yet.

Their music´s much better than Power though (which is full of 18 year olds and you can´t hear yourself speak...sorry I just turned 85 for a bit there) and the service is fantastico.

To give business a boost and start spreading the word (you can take the girl out of advertising...) I´ve invited all the volunteers tonight and Veronica and her hubby Marcello to join us after dinner. As V is the In-country Co-ordinator for i-to-i, I´m going to ask her to start promoting it to all her voluntarios (and her own mates too)
______

And it´s turning warmer again...yay!

Monday, 2 June 2008

Two bits of news I forgot, and an update

1) The mystery of the missing bra ends. Well, it´s re-appeared *by magic* in my drawer, freshly washed. Nothing was said, so I´ll say nothing. Very strange though. Just as well, cos the figleaves one my mum posted (along with my cash card) hasn´t got here, 10 days after posting...

2) Graciela, the head, has got Veronica to agree to me doing 4 more weeks at the school - YAY! So no horrific Refugio. They´ve got three other volunteers starting there next week anyway so I won´t be missed, and this 4 weeks will take me nicely to my school´s winter break. I think most voluntarios (like John & Ali) do max 4 weeks, so to have this continuity will be massively beneficial for the kids. A lot of work alone though, so I´m not looking forward to my last 2 weeks already!

UPDATE: Saturday night: We met in a bar with Tom, John, Ali, Kirsten (she´d fed the bear and put her to bed), Catherine, her boyfriend Scott and some random ginger guy, from Geneva called Timothy (Tom & John had met him earlier that day when they went to the Jesuit Ruins...those old rocks I told you about). He looked like he had a comedy ginger Scouse wig & tache, but he was a really nice guy.

Tom amused me by admitting that when he hung out with John the girls came flocking and he was quite happy to take John´s cast-offs!!!

The bar was fun, then we went onto Power.

Seriously, why do we bother? Power was shite the first time we went, and then just as bad on the Saturday. We managed to stay till about 5am (we only got there 2.30am) and headed home.

I think John enjoyed it as he went off sharking immediately (joined by Tom, but eventually Tom returned to us in the Electronica room, his less-proficient Spanish, and thick N.Ireland accent, making communication with the chicas almost impossible on a noisy crowded dancefloor), but for anyone who just wanted to dance, the music was shockingly bad, even in the Electronica room.

I knew we were in trouble when the best tune was ´Rhythm is a Dancer´ played twice within an hour. In between the tuneless bleeps and tragic mixing (the overhead said he was from Pacha...if that DJ has even been in as a punter, I´ll eat my Tango heels) he managed to tease us with a bit of Faithless ´Insomnia´, which he just as quickly took off as soon as we looked like we were enjoying ourselves.

Seemingly oblivious to the reaction of the 8 people on the tiny dancefloor (most of which were us), they switched back to tuneless bleeps, like teenage boys experimenting with their first Bontempi organ. As the worse type of men do, they seemed to be playing for only their own pleasure.

C & I left, vowing to not bother again.
_______

Sunday: I was in a bit of a huff with Aida today as she had told me off for speaking 6 words of English yesterday. (It´s exhausting speaking Spanish all the time and I wasn´t even speaking to her!)

She does this all the time, even if I´m speaking privately to C, which is annoying enough but bearable, but what *really* hacked me off though was that she said I *never* bothered speaking Spanish and that only C made the effort, which is a blatant lie, in fact my Spanish is better than his, and Mariana and C said as much to her - in Spanish - in my defence. I was furious though. I wanted to say "I´ve quit my job to come here, I´m learning your language, you´ve had loads of volunteers and have not bothered to learn any English, I am doing *voluntary work* here, we are paying to stay at yours, I´m tired, exhausted, Mariana speaks English and it was just a couple of mugs I needed, so JUST SHUT UP and LEAVE ME ALONE!!!´ but I seethed, silently instead. We´re here for another 5 weeks, no point rocking the boat.

So I stayed in bed for as long as I could, reading my novel, sleeping, and C brought me up a hot chocolate (sorry, "chocolate caliente") for sustenance.

Eventually, at 5.30, hunger got the better of me so I had to come downstairs. I managed to not say very much though, even at dinner, feigning tiredness.

C wasn´t very sympathetic when I had a rant to him about it later that evening, till I reminded him how supportive I´d been when Aida had told me yesterday to tell him to stop creating so much washing. (Ummm, how?! The refugio and kids are filthy so he *has* to change when he gets in. He also doesn´t want to wear his nice clothes to work, so he´s in effect getting through 2 sets a day). We´re going to find a laundrette, and then he won´t have to ration his pants and socks, or just keep buying more and more when he runs out (we have the EU sock mountain going on here).

A late (at night) posting, it´s 1.51 now, but I couldn´t get on till late tonight, Flor had more college work to do, and I needed to lesson prep: 1) los partes del cuerpo (parts of the body) and 2) physical descriptions.

We didn´t go to Tango tonight: John called off, which I was cool about; it´s CHUCKING it down right now, as it has been since about 3pm today (again, miraculously it stopped for 15 mins, just enough time for me to get home from Ali´s where we had lunch, and decadently polished off a daytime bottle of wine, despite promises to only have one glass each), and I just feel like getting under the blankets in this horrible cold weather :(